Fusion Flair

The Scene

Your visual cortex gets a big workout the instant you walk into Wild Tangerine. Its walls and floor are brightly coloured, but don't seem to match. Adding to that, sections of tiles are scattered along these vibrant walls, while up above, your view of the duct and pipe work is broken by a pill shaped, tangerine-coloured false ceiling, hung with bulbous lights in varying sizes and shades of whiteness. In such a small space, you'd expect such intense stimulation would overload your senses. Yet thanks to soft lighting, dark brown tables and stark white chairs, there's a aura of serenity to the whole ensemble. Wild Tangerine is a bit postmodern Zen-weird but it works.

Our Take

Like its décor, Wild Tangerine's menu is eclectic, featuring fresh ingredients direct from local growers and suppliers, and whenever possible, organic. The fusing of Asian and Italian cuisine is adventurous and fun. Starting off, you can't resist the shrimp lollipops, skewered shrimp wrapped in a crunchy phylo-type pastry. Dipping them into the wonderfully different wasabi yogurt gives a bit of zip for your first, second or last bite. The grilled five-spice octopus salad with tangerine vinaigrette is tangy and sweet, a salad lover's delight, even for those who don't normally eat much salad. You'll be surprised how fast it disappears and disappointed when the bowl is empty. There are also plenty of fascinating entrées-rices, meats, noodles, pastas and curries-but the two standouts are the slow-cooked marsala-masala spiced lamb and the Siao Hseng wine slow cooked Ardrossan bison short ribs with sesame-sushi rice. When the server tells you these are her favourite dishes, you actually believe she's not being overdeferential; she's telling you the truth.

The Wu Clan

Wild Tangerine may be relatively new to the scene, but it has an impressive pedigree. The proprietors are Wilson and Judy Wu, the brother-and-sister team behind Polo's, what was one of Edmonton's most eccentric yet creative restaurants. After a successful 10-year run, the Wus shut down Polo's and took a two-year sabbatical, leaving a hole in the heart of Edmonton diners. Wild Tangerine's Asian/Italian fusion harkens back to the days of Polo's, but Wilson Wu says this time they wanted something a little more casual, a little more upbeat. Hence the move from the white tablecloths in the more sedate Garneau area to the funky colours in the up-tempo Oliver district. So don't be fooled by the strip mall location-Wild Tangerine is one of the most creative and cosmopolitan restaurants in the city.

Great Plates

Siao Hseng Wine Slow-Cooked Ardrossan
Bison Short Ribs with Sesame-Sushi Rice

Siao Hseng Wine Slow-Cooked Ardrossan Bison Short Ribs with Sesame-Sushi Rice
Compared to other over-spiced and saucy ribs, there's a very lighttouch to the flavouring of these short ribs. And the meat is so exquisitely tender that you'll be remembering this dish long afterwards.

Shrimp Lollipops
Exercise your sense of fun with these lightly spiced and playfully skewered shrimp. Rolled in a phylo pastry for crunch. Comes with wasabi yogurt for dipping.

Grilled 5-Spice Octopus Salad with Tangerine Vinaigrette
Filled with shreds of mixed vegetables, fruits and delicate slices of octopus, this salad is sweet, tangy and terrific. Works well as a starter if you're sharing or as a healthy entrée for one.